10 QS WITH KATHRYN SARGENT, LONDON'S ONLY FEMALE MASTER TAILOR
“Bespoke tailoring is more of a mindset and value system, than merely a status symbol, clients are interested in owning something utterly unique to them, meticulously made by experts.”
Kathryn Sargent
1.) Where and when did your tailoring career very first begin?
I started my career at Gieves & Hawkes in 1996, as an apprentice. It was here that I rose to the esteemed position of Head Cutter, in and was the first woman in the history of Savile Row to do so.
2.) When did you launch Kathryn Sargent Bespoke Tailoring?
I founded my own tailoring house, Kathryn Sargent Bespoke in 2012 when I opened my own tailoring house located at No. 6 Brook Street in London’s prestigious Mayfair.
3.) For those seeking a bespoke service, can you tell us a little about the process, including timescales?
From consultation to finished article, the bespoke process takes approximately three to four months. The process commences with an initial consultation whereby we discuss a client’s individual tastes and requirements. Myself or the team will offer advice and ideas based on an individual’s lifestyle and personal preferences before taking precise measurements for the intricate pattern cutting process.
All bespoke pieces are handmade in London by master craftsmen who have been trained to the highest standard in time honoured Savile Row technical and artistic practices. The process usually requires two or three fittings to ensure perfection, and a little fine tuning towards the end. A Savile Row tailor should always present you with a garment that enhances your best features, flatters your shape and fits perfectly and this is something I am very proud to provide every single client.
The end result is a labour of love and a garment totally unique to the individual, that has been crafted to last a lifetime. A two-piece bespoke suit starts from £4,900, and a sports coat/blazer from £3,450. For trousers, prices start from £1,480 and overcoats from £4,260.
4.) For those who have not yet considered the idea, can you suggest 3 brilliant reasons to explore bespoke?
One of the benefits of exploring a bespoke suit, whether for a man or a woman, is that it matches the lifestyle of the client it was created for. There is little point in creating a suit in a heavy weight cloth if it will be worn for most of the time in a warm climate. Suits are worn for a multitude of occasions and their job is specific for each of these. However, for me every suit, no matter what the occasion, must be practical, comfortable, fit perfectly and look stylish. By working closely with the client throughout the bespoke process, I can create bespoke pieces that can encapsulate all these things.
A bespoke suit is a truly sustainable fashion choice. A bespoke garment is designed and produced to last a lifetime and is a timeless classic investment. At Kathryn Sargent Bespoke we have access to exclusive fabrics, such as the Sargent Harris Tweed. This is a collaboration that I designed myself with Harris Tweed to create an exclusive and completely original unisex house tweed of subtlest heather tones and soft over-check. It is particularly beautiful in a bespoke blazer or statement coat, but lends itself to several classic styles. Other exclusive Scottish woven tweeds are also available on request.
5.) Why do you think Savile Row has stood the test of time?
Standing the test of time is the true measure of a Savile Row bespoke tailored garment, fashions may come and go but craftmanship of the quality that lasts for generations can only be found in one place in the entire world.
6.) Do you have any advice for women looking to break into the tailoring industry?
For anyone looking to get their feet ‘in the door’ of this industry it is very important to do lots of thorough research before approaching tailoring houses as it can be a very competitive area to try and win a placement. Try to secure work experience with a tailoring house or independent Savile Row (accredited) tailor as this will give you a first-hand opportunity to experience the different roles within the industry and you will be much more likely to be considered for a position if you have already had practical experience. ‘The Bespoke Apprentice’ website is a valuable resource, many tailoring houses have contributed to the information collated. Similarly, the ‘Savile Row Bespoke’ website should also be reviewed.
7.) This winter, are there any special fabric choices you’ll be recommending to clients?
For winter we would recommend flannel cloth, we have them available in very rich wintery colours and I personally always feel much warmer in a flannel suit.
8.) Where are your go-to hot spots for a fabulous lunch in W1
The Colony Grill Room at The Beaumont always has a delightful menu in a cosy interior. Claridge’s of course which is beautiful and a short walk from my Brook Street atelier. Alternatively, there is always Jean Georges at The Connaught which is also excellent.
9.) On a well-deserved day off work, where can you be found?
We are fortunate to have such great galleries in London so I do take the time to visit as many as I can, particularly the Royal Academy. Additionally, in the Summer I do love to visit Kew Gardens as I enjoy their contrast of beautiful gardens and spaces.
10.) What are the benefits of a bespoke tuxedo suit? What is your unique approach when designing a suit? i.e. sustainability etc.
When I make a bespoke ‘black tie’ evening suit it is always an enjoyable experience for us both, the anticipation of an evening somewhere fabulous...the unknown the future nights in it will bring. As this is a piece to be worn socially and have fun in, although we know the components, I still work in a way which reflects their personality, how they move, how they want to feel, how they want to be perceived, their style.
My perfect black tie comprises of a midnight blue barathea cloth, in a one buttoned peak contrasting satin lapel cut to fit the body well but to emphasise the waist and elongate the legs. Black tie makes the wearer elegant and handsome too!
Bespoke tailoring is more of a mindset and value system, than merely a status symbol, clients are interested in owning something utterly unique to them, meticulously made by experts. It is also the ultimate in sustainability, clients own and wear garments over a number of years.
Visit Kathryn Sargent at 6 Brook St, Mayfair, London W1S 1BB | Tel: +44 (0) 20 7493 2450
