OUT OF MAYFAIR | RESTAURANT REVIEW: NO. FIFTY CHEYNE, CHELSEA
Disclaimer: We were invited for a press stay in exchange for an honest review.
On a spring evening in late March, we took a walk from South Kensington to No. Fifty Cheyne, a charming neighbourhood restaurant in the heart of Old Chelsea. Proprietor Sally Green, who is also behind the world-famous jazz club Ronnie Scott’s, launched No. Fifty Cheyne in 2019 following a refurbishment of her former restaurant, The Cheyne Brasserie (opened in 2014). Glowing reviews followed and it’s been a huge hit with the locals.
Ground Floor at No. Fifty Cheyne
The restaurant’s thriving ground floor space is a well-lit haven of soothing neutrals, marble table tops and soft brown leather seats, under the watchful eye of a decadent crystal chandelier - it has a homely, townhouse feel. A dashing gold bar framed with an explosion of flowers and a lively open grill steal the show.
Upstairs, the regal Drawing Room overlooks the River Thames, with picturesque views over Chelsea Embankment Gardens and on to Albert Bridge. On the same floor, we spy an alluring ruby red Cocktail Bar that wouldn’t look out of place in 5 Hertford St, offering classic cocktails with a No. Fifty Cheyne twist. The restaurant was appointed a wedding license in April 2021 and the Drawing Room is perfect for an intimate wedding celebration for up to 44 guests.
We’re dining on the ground floor, which is gloriously inviting and flushed with the golden glow of candlelight. The clientele the night we visit is varied - two young twenty-something males, casually dressed, enjoy a fleeting round of cocktails; four suited 30-something males engage in animated chatter over Chateaubriand and Burgundy; middle aged locals enjoy a midweek date night - cheese courses are out in full force.
The Drawing Room at No. Fifty Cheyne
We are welcomed by the impeccable Maurizio Rimerici, an experienced Ops Manager, who swiftly steers us towards a table with a perfect spot for our daughter, who is fast asleep in the pram. Formerly at Cecconi’s, Cipriani and others, Maurizio is no stranger to five-star service and his attention to detail is second to none.
We begin our evening with some tempting Chelsea-inspired cocktails. Signature cocktails include A Bitter Affair, with Volcan Blanco Tequila, Campari, crème de peche, grapefruit and soda; Darling This is Chelsea, with Hennessy VS, Grand Marnier, Maraschino liqueur, agave nectar, Angostura bitters and lemon; and Werewolf in Cheyne, with Bacardi 4yr Rum, Hennessy VS Cognac, Orgeat Syrup, Egg White and Orange.
Giving back locally, No. Fifty Cheyne have created The Royal Lancer, made with RH Chelsea Garden Gin, Campari, St Germain and grapefruit juice. £2.00 per cocktail is given to the Chelsea Pensioners at The Royal Hospital Chelsea.
The Royal Lancer, made with RH Chelsea Garden Gin
Head Chef Iain Smith stands at the culinary helm at No. Fifty Cheyne, overseeing an ever-evolving menu. He utilises the finest British produce and beautifully plated dishes are centred around the open grill. We have the pleasure of meeting Iain and we’re instantly drawn in by his joie de vivre and relaxed, personable demeanour. His ardent love for cooking is immediately clear as we talk Scottish seafood, wood-smoking and family.
James and I, being polar opposites in our dining preferences, manage to cover a fair amount of ground on the À La Carte. Prompted by his love for Scotland, James went for the Roasted Orkney Scallop starter, served with sage and onion puree, cepe and bacon jam ragout and butternut squash sauce; citing a winning flavour compilation. Feeling holier than thou, I opt for the Crapaudine French Beetroot and Pumpkin salad - citrus quinoa, caramelised clementine, pickled sultanas and cashew nut milk. It is light, fresh and flavoursome.
At this point, Head Chef Iain’s exuberant creative flair is evident. Half a free-range Cumbrian chicken is next to arrive, served with Marmite, roasted garlic and Guinness butter. It’s the first time I’ve seen James melt at the sight of a chicken and it was love at first bite. Rosemary fries and grilled broccolini join the table and I decide it’s definitely time to acquaint myself.
The Cocktail Bar on the first floor at No. Fifty Cheyne
For the main, I have ordered Foraged roasted cepe, pearl barley risotto with smoked thyme butter, wilted swiss chard and Baron Bigod cheese and i’m blown away by the impeccably smoky, creamy ensemble. Suffolk-made Baron Bigod disperses decadently, its mushroomy, vegetal flavour complimenting the rich, earthy risotto. It’s quite something.
As ever, the third stomach called for dessert and we wholly accepted Mauritzio’s recommendation of Raspberry and white chocolate souffle with clotted cream ice cream and Iain’s hundreds and thousands. This melt-in-the-mouth wonder is what I expect heaven to taste like and it’s impossible to eat it without shutting your eyes as you internally re-enact a 90s Häagen-Dazs ad.
We don’t stop there. Espresso martinis and a divine Dark chocolate fondant with pistachio, salted caramel sauce and malt ice cream and espresso martinis conclude a truly magical evening.
No. Fifty Cheyne, 50 Cheyne Walk, Chelsea, London, SW3 5LR
E: info@fiftycheyne.com | Tel: +44 (0) 207 376 8787
