AUTUMN DINING REVIEW: MANTHAN MAYFAIR, 49 MADDOX STREET
October 2022
James and I visited Manthan Mayfair for the first time this month, a welcomed new edition to Mayfair’s bustling food scene and the latest venture from accomplished chef, Rohit Ghai. The eclectic menu presents Indian home-style cooking, bar snacks, sharing plates, curries, and a selection of Ghai’s mother’s signature dishes and family recipes. There is a real nature theme throughout the narrow Maddox Street restaurant, from signature cocktails named after the seven oceans, to sea creature table decor and artwork.
We are greeted with a warm welcome and shown to an intimate, low lit booth and it is perfectly “Mayfair”. James and I have come to try the five-course signature tasting menu, Charitra, and the vegetarian version, Pavitra, both £50pp. A wine pairing is available for an additional £55pp, but today we’re in a cocktail mood.
James dives into Charitra. Ghati Masala Prawns, ultra juicy prawns in sesame, peanut, coconut and chilli, an instant hit. I feel the jealousy rising and I steal a prawn. Cafreal Macchi is up next, a perfectly cooked sea bass with a crispy top, Goan spice and burnt tomato. It’s divine. A tender Lamb Chop with Indian onion, royal cumin and mint is a taste sensation. Methi Murgh, AKA boneless thigh with fenugreek and whole spices; kaali dal, rice and paratha, is enough for James to stop speaking, for he is 100% full. A much anticipated sweet treat, Narangi Chocolate, is last to arrive - a beautifully plated mass of orange, berries, chocolate soil.
Across the table from James, I am enjoying Pavitra, bursting at seams with flavour and colour. I am in my element and this is as good as a Mayfair Today can get. Ram Laddoo is my first dish - vibrant yellow lentils with date and radish, unexpected flavours that marry well. Matter Ki Tikki, a green pea, curry leaf and chutney dish, is next, closely followed by Tandoori Phool, with beetroot, yoghurt and gram flour. I eat both delicious dishes with perfectly squishy, warm naan. Paneer Makhani with vine tomato, Kashmiri chilli and fenugreek is my favourite dish of the day, served with kaali dal, rice and paratha.
My final course is the Classical Trio, something I would not normally go for (three gorgeous looking desserts - Besan Barfi, Gulab Jamun and Shrikhand). I am pleasantly surprised by this super sweet dish boasting fragrant waves of cardamom and rose. Indian sweet treats are truly delightful.
We recommend Manthan Mayfair for business lunches (just don’t order the five-course tasting menu if you’re going to quit your job and have two hours of awkwardness like the table next to us), romantic dates or dining with family and friends for a special occasion. From the decadent decor to the extensive, thought-led menu, you really can’t go wrong here.
A special thanks to Enytha Sutedja for organising this wonderful lunch!
49 Maddox Street, Mayfair, London W1S 2PQ
