HOTEL & DINING REVIEW: THE STAFFORD LONDON & THE GAME BIRD, ST JAMES'S
September 2022
Stuart Procter, Chief Operating Officer of The Stafford London and Northcote
You’re often hard pushed to find a hotel with a flawless reputation, but The Stafford London is up there with the very best of them. Hidden in a beautifully quiet spot in historic St James’s, and located just moments from London’s most exciting landmarks, The Stafford London is one of the finest luxury hotels that the Capital has to offer.
There are so many reasons to love The Stafford London, from the hotel’s incredible history, to its much celebrated restaurant, The Game Bird. I have been in and out of the property for years, often bringing clients and friends into The American Bar for meetings, so I was delighted to accept the opportunity to review the hotel and restaurant this month.
The American Bar Courtyard at The Stafford London
After an excellent lunch at Manthan Mayfair, James, Margot and I arrive at hotel, greeted by the friendly reception team and the excited chatter of American guests who had arrived at the same time. Margot, 8 months, joins the conversation, mesmerised by the abundance of fresh flowers.
We enjoy a speedy check in and the lady who checks us in goes above and beyond to make us feel at home, something the hotel prides itself on. We are taken to our suite and given an informative tour, learning key details of the recent refurbishment and hearing tempting tales of times gone by.
Main House Park Suite
The hotel’s devilishly stylish rooms and suites are fit for the royals, and the most world’s most prestigious interior designers would be quite happy to leave them alone. Rooms and suites are spread across three individual buildings, each boasting unique characteristics and endless charm. We’re in a decadent Main House Park Suite boasting rich tones of gold and green, original artwork and many a nod to nature, including a touch of William Morris.
I spy four tempting chocolates and a shimmering silver ‘M’ on a large, white plate, and instantly recognise it as The Mayfair Musings logo. In the bedroom, Margot’s bed has been prepared and special baby products are waiting for her on her pillow. The staff’s attention to detail is second to none and this is the perfect start to our stay.
A Perfect Spot for Relaxing and Entertaining in the Main House Park Suite
We take advantage of the hotel’s central location and head towards Covent Garden for a late afternoon walk. We stop there for an alfresco pizza, enjoying live music and soaking up the last of the summer sun. The walk back to The Stafford London is a pleasure in itself, and nearby Jermyn Street is bustling with after work drinkers who are in high spirits, overjoyed to be loitering outside with a well-deserved pint in hand. Fortnum’s lures me in for some provisions and I narrowly avoid another fall into Floris.
Our next stop is The American Bar, and in a quiet corner, we make our way through several signature cocktails curated by the famous Bar Director, Benoit, and his talented team. We make some friends from Tennessee, and The Alchemy of Equilibrium, a newly-launched cocktail menu, catches our eye. I try TERRA, made with Aber Falls Whisky, Muscat, Blackberry, Sandalwood and Cacao Nibs. It is divinely multi-faceted, sweet and smoky.
A Perfect Evening Spot, The American Bar’s Main Room
Other cocktail favourites include a pre dinner classic for James the Pilot, The Spitfire, with vanilla-infused Snow Queen Vodka, Champagne, passion fruit purée and passion fruit liqueur. The crime novel super fan in me orders The Moriarty, with Goya Tequila, Corte Vetusto Espadin Mezcal, Cointreau Blood Orange, grapefruit juice, agave syrup and lime. Long live The American Bar, for it is an incredibly hard act to follow.
I love waking up in the heart of St James’s. After an extremely comfortable night, we order breakfast in-room and two Eggs Royale arrive seamlessly. By the time I return from a morning meeting at The Oriental Club, it’s time for lunch, and we head straight to The Game Bird. Margot, a little impatient, is greeted with a wooden Noah’s Ark set that keeps her entertained throughout the entire lunch, and we are very thankful for this!
The Game Bird
Executive Chef Jozef Rogulski, formerly of Cliveden House Hotel, Tom Kerridge’s The Hand and Flowers and the Roux family’s The Waterside Inn in Bray, has long been delighting diners with his innovative use of the finest British ingredients. This includes locally sourced produce from the picturesque 16,500-acre Cowdray Estate in West Sussex. With great success, Rogulski helped to launch The Game Bird in 2017, and it has met critical and public acclaim ever since.
The Sommelier appears, recommending Quincy Quartz Par Dimitri Mesnard, a wonderfully aromatic Loire Sauvignon Blanc from a small family plot. For lunch, I order Vine Tomato Consommé to start and James opts for a Crispy North Sea Cod. Both dishes are light, flavoursome and perfectly plated. On neighbouring tables I spy a group of women enjoying Classic Crepes Suzette theatrically flamed table side; two businessmen enjoying a Venison Wellington for two; and a group of hotel guests marvelling at an H Forman & Son Smoked Salmon on a large silver platter. The Game Bird is low lit, inviting and extremely well run. There is always a fantastic atmosphere.
For the main, Orkney Scallop Tempura with roast garlic and tarragon emulsion wins me over, and it is an edible work of art. James orders Dover Sole with pickled cucumber, sea herbs and radish; deliciously soft with an abundance of fresh samphire. A decadent Valrhona Chocolate Cylinder with smoked nuts and salted milk ice cream spells the end of our lunch and we are delighted.
Ask for a Private Tour of The Stafford Wine Cellars, an Underground Treasure-trove for Winelovers
It’s safe to say that I can recommend The Stafford London for business meetings, extended stays and everything in between. Although the world around us appears to be changing fast, The Stafford London is comfortingly familiar, even with the heavenly new refurbishment. The hotel offers a sanctuary away from the world outside with its timeless beauty, exceptional hospitality and true British quality in the heart of St James’s.
16-18 St James's Place, London SW1A 1NJ
Reservations: +44 207 493 0111 | reservations@thestaffordlondon.com
