IMPACT OF WATCHES & WONDERS 2022 ON THE SECONDARY MARKET
While watch brands use sales metrics to determine the success of their strategies, the secondary market is often where the impact of novelties is best understood. DWL’s Danny Shahid explains how the new releases at the recent Watches and Wonders trade show are already changing buying behaviour:
Leading with the Left-hand
Rolex Green Dial Oyster Perpetual
When Rolex makes a change, its impact is felt immediately. This year’s biggest launch at Watches and Wonders was the left-handed GMT-Master II “Sprite” ref. 126720VTNR. While critics note it’s not much of a technical update, its left-handed design is already altering purchasing patterns. The new model is now one of the most requested watches on the market, although Authorised Dealers won’t receive it until the summer.
We can assume some right-handed buyers will want to wear left-handed watches on their right hand. This may seem counter-intuitive, but left handed models can actually feel more comfortable as the crown faces up the arm, allowing for greater movement in the wrist.
Brands most likely see a spike are Panerai and Tudor, which produces a left-handed variant of the Pelagos dive watch. Although watchmakers are now likely to increase their output of left-handed models, the Sprite’s impact means there will be a squeeze on existing models and they will inevitably become more scarce and sought after.
The Oyster Perpetual Adjustment
Cartier Tank Must Blue
Many were shocked that Rolex announced the discontinuation of their three most popular Oyster Perpetual variants at Watches and Wonders because this collection brought in the modern era of colourful dials that several brands have since emulated. The Coral Red, Yellow and ‘Tiffany’ Blue Oyster Perpetuals in 41mm, alongside the Coral Red and Yellow in 36mm, are out of production and this has left many on waiting lists disappointed.
All of the discontinued 41mm variants saw their market value rise £8,000- £10,000 overnight, while the Green dial model that remains in production has increased in value due to lengthening waiting lists with Authorised Dealers. The 36mm is now the largest ‘Tiffany’ Blue model that remains, and so collectors who previously wouldn’t have considered wearing smaller watches are reconsidering, fuelling the trend of men wearing smaller watches.
A Renewed Fondness for Vintage
Rolex Tiffany Blue Oyster Perpetual
With brands including Tudor, Cartier and Vacheron launching vintage-inspired models (the Black Bay Pro, Santos Dumont and the 222), collectors are being inspired to cast their eye back and appreciate vintage designs that haven’t yet had their moment in the sun. While plenty of vintage models remain incredibly popular with watch collectors, they are typically the better-known designs such as the Submariner, Nautilus, GMT-Master and Daytona.
This year’s Watches and Wonders has shone a light on the vintage designs of lesser-known models by bringing them into the modern conversation. As a result, under the radar vintage designs from highly respected brands are likely to experience a surge in demand. Collectors may start looking twice at the following:
The Rolex Turn-O-Graph, a standalone model that was later wrapped into the Datejust collection and discontinued in the 2000s. A little dressier than your average tool watch and rumoured to become a new Rolex or Tudor novelty.
Must de Cartier Tank, the cheaper version of the Cartier Tank. Originally launched in the late 1970s, relaunched last year and growing in popularity. The vintage models have almost doubled in value since last summer.
The Hublot MDM Geneve, a wildcard choice. A very early model with a simple aesthetic, this would fit in with the trend of relaunched vintage models becoming more in demand.
Danny Shahid’s flagship DWL shop is in Mayfair’s Burlington Arcade, the home of luxury boutiques. DWL has more than 14 years’ experience in sourcing rare and big name watches, some of which are subject to lengthy waiting lists elsewhere. Staff are often asked for their expert opinion by fellow jewellers and retailers. The luxury watch experts’ stock is constantly changing but they have immediate access to more than one hundred exquisite models, most worth between £10,000 and £40,000 but some with a value of up to £1,000,000.
For more information about DWL, please visit www.diamondwatcheslondon.com
Find out more about Danny Shahid, follow @excellencebydanny on Instagram
